Teaching Your Cat to Love the Crate

Lesson description: You will teach your cat to approach and enter their crate. The technique discussed is a passive one, meaning your cat makes the choice and should never be forced. The goal is to have the cat realize that good things happen when it is in the crate; this process is called desensitization (becoming more comfortable with the carrier) and counter conditioning (changing the emotional response from fear to comfort).

Before starting be sure to have the following items:

·       Crate- free from odors. If your cat has previously eliminated in the carrier, clean, disinfect and let dry. 

o      Hard sided crates ideally will have a top that opens as well as the front door.

o      Soft-sided crates are acceptable to use as well.

o      The crate should be large enough that the cat can enter without hitting the door. The size will be determined by the size of your cat.

·       Feliway spray- this is a pheromone spray and it helps to decrease anxiety of cats.  Please spray the carrier and any bedding at least 30 minutes prior to introducing your cat to the carrier. You can also take a towel that you have rubbed on your cat's face when they are happy and place that in the carrier.

·       Bedding- whatever your cat likes. Generally they like soft and fluffy with a rim around the edge to snuggle against.

·       Treats and toys- they have to be good. Your cat gets to decide. Canned food, hot dogs, chicken chunks, tuna chunks, and yogurt.  If your cat has health issues, please consult with your veterinarian prior to trying these foods.  The cat won't be getting a large volume of these special items. Some cats prefer toys to food; having their favorite toy available is helpful also.

Training plan: 

·       Place the carrier in a favorite laying spot.

o      Place the comfy bedding along with treats and toys in the carrier.

o      Remove the door from the crate. This prevents the cat from accidentally hitting the door and becoming scared while it is exploring.

o      Remove lid if your cat is really freaked out by the carrier. Let them get used to just the bottom. It will serve as a bed.

o      Let the cat explore the bed.  Ideally the cat should “discover” the goodies on his or her own.  Once the treats are consumed/or toys removed you can add more.

o      If you happen to be in the room when the cat enters the carrier you can say, "good kitty" in a soft reassuring voice.

o      If your cat is going in regularly and you are present you can reinforce the good behavior by walking over and dropping a treat in the carrier.

·       Replace lid on carrier

o      This is only necessary if you had to remove the top in the previous step.

o      With the lid on, start over again at the beginning just as you did without the lid.  The process generally goes much quicker. The cat determines the pace.

·       Replace door on carrier

o      Fasten the door so that it will not bang open or shut.

o      Ideally the crate is large enough that your cat can go in and out without hitting the door.

·       Stand close to carrier

o      At this point your cat should be going into the carrier regularly.

§        Toys and lower value treats, such as kibble (and fewer of them) are placed in the carrier.

o      The cat needs to feel comfortable with you by the carrier.

§        As the cat enters, or is in the carrier, toss your cats high value treats your cat will learn that you, near the carrier is a good thing.

·       Shut carrier door

o      First, just place your hand on the carrier door, toss treats

o      Then slowly shut the door, each time tossing treats.

o      When the cat is very comfortable you can latch the door, toss treats and open door

o      Gradually increase the time the door is shut.  If your cat seems nervous at all, back up a step or two. You might feed them their canned food in the carrier, shut the door and open the door before they are done eating.

o      It is important that your cat is very comfortable in the carrier with the door shut before proceeding.

o      Allow the cat to come out of the carrier after each session if they choose.

·       Pick up carrier

o      Slowly pick up carrier just a few inches off the floor.  Toss treats in, or give the cat something really good to eat while you are picking up the carrier. 

o      This first step is just vertical movement.

o      Gradually increase the height that you are picking up the carrier.

o      Allow the cat to come out of carrier every time you pick carrier up.

·       Carry carrier

o      Take one small step at a time, treat, put down and open door. Repeat. If the cat is stressed or upset, back up a step. 

·       Place carrier in the stationary car that is not running.

o      Place the carrier in the car. Give treats.

o      Keep the carrier in the car for longer periods of time.  Give treats intermittently as you increase the time in the car.

·       Start the car

o      But do not drive anywhere.

o      Gradually increase the time the engine is running.

·       Drive a short distance

o      Short is relative.  Ideally you stop just before your cat would get upset. We do not want the cat to get upset so it is better to stop too soon than to push your luck. Going to the point that the cat gets upset sets back the training process and erodes the trust and confidence that the cat has associated with you and getting in the carrier.

o      Gradually increase the distance traveled.

 Things to consider:

·       The cat decides the rate of training.  While going slow may be tedious, it will create a longer lasting positive effect.

·       It may be helpful to use longer lasting treats (such as canned food the cat needs to work on) when first implementing something new- door closing, lifting, etc.  That way, the cat is distracted by the good food and there is a positive association. If the cat stops eating the food, it is a sign that the progression has gone too quickly.

·       Rank treats/toys from high to low. The best treats are the ones the cat will do anything for and are used when introducing new steps.  As the cat becomes more comfortable, gradually fade out high value for lower value treats.

·       Using Feliway during the process can help the cat feel more comfortable.  You can also use a Feliway diffuser in an outlet near the carrier. The diffusers have a longer lasting effect.

·       Some cats may get car sick if they have eaten too much prior to getting into the car.  For these cats, feeding prior to the getting into the car should be avoided (counter condition the other steps with the treats but do not feed prior to getting in the car).  If it is vomiting related to anxiety, the positive association with the carrier should eliminate some if not all of the anxiety associated with the carrier.  This in turn should decrease the vomiting as well as stress eliminations.

·       This seems like a lot of work but the benefits are many fold. 

o      A calmer cat in the veterinary setting means better care and evaluations.

o      Natural disasters such as house fires, tornadoes, hurricanes or any evacuation procedure will go a lot smoother if you are not fighting your cat to get into the carrier.  The ability of the cat to go easily into the carrier could save its life.

o      Your cat has a safe place to retreat when company or small children are present.

o      Traveling with your pet becomes a joy instead of a chore.

o      Hopefully your cat will always be healthy and not require frequent trips to the veterinary hospital. If, however, they do get sick and need frequent exams, at least the carrier and car ride will not be stressful for them.

 Please contact our office if you have any questions!